Gerry Krzic K-41

One of the unexpected pleasures (and there are many!) of having served as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Korea is the serendipitous meetings one has now with Koreans who have a memory of or connection with the many volunteers who served in Korea. This month's blog will profile three of these individuals who are working to preserve Korea history and traditions with the goal of contributing to a better future.

Profile Two: Ms. Chee Hye Lee (이지혜), The University of Arizona

Recently, FOK members may have seen postings on the FOK and Korea RPCVs Facebook sites about a survey on the history of English education in Korea being conducted by Ms. Chee Hye Lee (이지혜). 

I had the pleasure of meeting Ms. Lee during a visit to the University of Arizona, where she is a doctoral student in the department of Teaching, Learning, and Sociocultural Studies.  

Ms. Lee is in the process of writing her dissertation on the teaching of English in the Korean schools since the founding of the Republic in 1945. She is dividing her research into three different historical periods: the nation-building period from 1945 - 1960, the "Peace Corps-Korea" period from 1966-1981, and the globalization period from 1993 – present. She is examining the English educational policies and practices during each time.  

Her interest in researching  the history of English teaching in Korea evolved from a discussion about English education policies with her father, Professor Ki Suk Lee, who is at Jeju National University (JNU).

Professor Lee  shared a story with his daughter about learning English from a Peace Corps Volunteer when he was a middle school student in 1967 in Daejeon. According to Ms. Lee, this was the first time that she had learned about Peace Corps in Korea.  Since she did not know about this part of Korean history, she thought that most likely other members of her generation do not know either. Thus, she hopes to capture that piece of history "before it is too late."

Then, in 2013, during a conference in San Francisco, Ms. Lee stayed with the Van Hoorn family.  She was able to see pictures from the couple's time in Korea teaching English. Ms. Lee said it was an amazing experience to meet them and to see their photos of Korea from the late 1960s.  

After the San Francisco conference,  Ms. Lee returned to the University to consider her dissertation topic. She thought that all of "this (my father meeting Judy, after all these years, and being able to meet Judy and Derek, and reconnecting) was a serendipitous experience" and a sign that she has to conduct this research for her dissertation.  

Ms. Lee's prediction for the future of English education takes into account the changing political and economic landscape of East Asia.  She feels that the Chinese language will continue to grow in popularity. Whenever she goes back to Jeju, she sees an increasing number of Chinese visiting the island and hears Chinese being spoken in all the tourist areas.  She does believe that English will continue to be important as it is still the global language for trade and commerce. After finishing her dissertation, she hopes to find a university position and continue her contribution to global English education but now with a stronger understanding of what has occurred in the past.

If you would like to contact Ms. Lee about her research, contact us at FOK.

Profile Three: Dr. Sang Bum Chin (진 상범), Professor of German Language and Literature, Cheonbuk National University.

In the city of Jeonju, German Language & Literature professor, Dr. Sang Bum Chin, has been diligently working as a teacher and scholar with national recognition for his work: the 2013 Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism Award for Outstanding Scholarly Book and a listing in the "Who's Who in Korean Society" for 2014.  In 2009, he established the Institute of Intercultural Communication at CBNU to globalize Korean culture and research strategies for world peace and Korean unification.
 
I met Dr. Chin unexpectedly in the foreign languages building at Cheonbuk National University (CBNU), where I learned of Professor Chin's next big project: the creation of an international cyber university to be located near the Imshil PIlbong Nongak Center in North Jeolla province. Former volunteers in the Jeollado area may remember Imshil as the only place to find cheese in Korea during the 1960s and 1970s. However, its nongak (farmer's music & dance) has been designated by the Korean government as an important Intangible Cultural Property that should be preserved for future generation and is one of only five such nongak centers in Korea.

Professor Chin is purposely choosing the Pilbong area as the location for his cyber university because he feels that the interactive performance of traditional nongak transcends language differences and has the power to unite people in a harmonious environment --  the first step in learning cooperation and peace. See this video of Pilbong music and read about a former Fulbright English Teaching Assistant's experience at the Center. 

Professor Chin envisions the cyber university to have four departments for leadership development on world issues. The first is a Department of Korean Studies for educating leaders to create globalization strategies of Korean culture.  The second is the Department of Unification to create leaders to seek unification between the two Koreas. The third is the Department of World Peace for  leaders to realize world peace. The fourth is the Department for Co-Existence, which will research methodologies for solving global problems such as environmental pollution, war and poverty. 

Professor Chin feels that the goals of his latest initiatives match the goals of Peace Corps and the Friends of Korea and is now planning for an international symposium on world peace and unification in 2015.  He is trying to use the traditions of Korean music as a catalyst for solving world problems via modern technology. Stay tuned for developments on the cyber university.

Finally...
Leave us a comment -- maybe about a serendipitous experience you have had in Korea yourself!

by Gerry Krzic (K-41)

Changes Down the Road?
The arrival of the autumn moon (추석) signals a time to give thanks for the abundant harvest of the year.   The Korean peninsula pulsates as urban residents head to their rural hometowns to meet relatives and honor their ancestors. In  2014, the 추석 holiday is officially observed from September 7 to 9, but since it includes some weekend days, an extra designated day-off on September 10 extends the celebration to five days (but not for all)!

Recent reports in the popular press, indicate that contemporary Korean families are questioning the traditional ways of celebrating the holiday. They cite the stress of the holiday preparation, the prolonged time sitting in highway traffic and the unwanted queries from relatives about personal life choices as just some of the reasons to seek alternate ways to celebrate Korea's Thanksgiving.  Whether or not these changes take hold on a large scale remains to be seen.  But there is no doubt,  one big change is occurring:  the countryside that many of the urbanites are returning to is changing. 

When many Friends of Korea (FOK) members first came to Korea in the 1960’s and 1970’s, the population of rural Korea was robust and Chuseok celebrations in villages were full of activities and people.  But, even then, a shift was beginning to take place as Korea began to industrialize and the population began to migrate to the cities.  The ramifications of this are evident today as the rural population has dwindled, largely void of young residents.  

Where is Everyone?
Unlike the lively rural atmosphere of the 1970's (above left), the melancholy scene on the right (above) was repeated in the neighborhoods of the villages I visited this past summer. Empty houses and signs for rooms for rent were the norm. Villagers I talked to lamented the absence of youth in the countryside. Indeed, I  saw a husbands and wives, usually over 50 years old, working in the fields.  

In contrast, when I visited cities such as Daegu and Seoul, I was struck by the mix of generations enjoying the glamor and glitter of urban life. While the countryside has shrunk in population, Daegu and Seoul of the 21st century have grown from the 1970's (below left and right). 

So, how can the Korean government get people back to either living or at least re-engaging in the Korean countryside? In the case of Yecheon, here are a few initiatives.

• Government-funded Towns and Offices

In the case of the Yecheon area, the Gyeongsan Provincial Government is moving its headquarters from the Daegu area to the Yecheon/Andong area, hoping that will spur development and increase the population. The governor of the province hopes the move will "foster regional balanced development and new growth of North Gyeongsang Province in the future."
http://news.gb.go.kr/main/php/search_print_page.php?idx=11756&img=undefined&diaryDate=0000-00-00

• "Return to the Farm"  (귀농) Campaign
The government has also instituted a new movement to encourage Korean citizens to "return to the farm." in this program, the Korean government will provide loans and training on agricultural and business practices.

According to news reports based on government statistics, 47,322 households have left the city for rural life.

People younger than 50 years of age made up 36% of this number.  

See http://www.refarm.org and http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2013-03-27/south-koreans-in-farm-u-turn-as-chaebol-era-s-rapid-growth-ends.html

• Promoting Rural Life to Urban Visitors
Local governments in areas such as Yecheon are also encouraging visits by urban residents  through the promotion of

• organic products for sale at local "traditional" markets
• local tourism
• the clean rural lifestyle "Clean Yecheon."

During my visit to Yecheon, I saw busloads of visitors from Daegu coming to purchase fresh vegetables and products from the local market. They were also coming to visit Hoeryongpo (회룡포), billed as an "island village" in the Naeseongcheon River and made famous in the 2002 Korean drama "Autumn in My Heart." http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=805822

Finally...
Whether or not the traditional ways of celebrating Chuseok (추석) change in the future remains to be seen.  Attitudes toward traditional customs and the realities of demographic changes will surely have an impact.  However, in 2014, we are still seeing the families gathering and thanks being given for the good fortune bestowed upon the lives of the people on the peninsula.  

What do you think will happen to Chuseok celebrations in the future?  What will impact will the changing demographics have upon society?  Feel free to leave comments.  And before you go, in the best spirit of Chuseok tradition, let's honor the past and enjoy the present.  Here are some pictures from the 1970/80s and contemporary Korea (pictures usually taken from the same locations).

by Gerry Krzic (K-41) 

Summer -- usually a time for extended vacations and relaxing.  However, In Korea, a new phenomena -- International Summer School (ISS) is changing how students spend this time. In years past, summer school in Korea usually meant Korean language and culture programs designed for overseas ethnic Korean youth to learn about their ancestral homeland. Now, the summer schools have evolved into comprehensive international programs that offer a variety of courses such as Conflict Resolution, Capitalism and Social Conscience, Marketing and Consumer Behavior in East Asia --- all taught in English.  Students from places such as China, France, Malaysia, and the USA are now coming to Korea to take these courses instead of in their home countries. Korean students also attend in order to study with their international peers and sharpen their English.  

The programs in Seoul are booming in enrollment. Last summer, Hanyang University reported hosting more than 800 students. The popularity of the ISS programs in the capital has made regional Korean universities take notice. More and more are creating their own summer programs. Cheonbuk National University (CBNU) in Jeonju ("The Best Taste City In Korea") is one such institution.

Olivier (France):  I am interested in East Asia. In France, I had the opportunity to go study in either Korea or Japan on a scholarship. I had some friends who went to Korea and they liked it, so I decided to go to Korea. I am a computer science major, and in the future, I would like to develop software applications.  Studying in Korea, which is very high tech, can help me.  ISS is  a good way to continue my interest in Korea.

Ellie (Korea):  I can improve my English and learn about other cultures in ISS and it’s better than going to a Hagwon (학원: private cram school).  I am not sure of my long-term plans, but in the immediate future, I plan to go to the USA on a working holiday. After that I will decide what I want to do.

Good Job (Korea):  It is a challenge for me to try to use English and I can meet people from other countries. I would like to be a motivational public speaker in the future. So, attending ISS can help me with my communication skills.

Vii (Taiwan):  I became interested in Korea from watching dramas and I liked the way the language sounded.  This was a precious chance for me to come to live, and not just travel, in a foreign culture and make friends.  If I didn’t come here, I would be doing an internship in Taiwan; I like this better.  Also, in the future, I plan to teach Chinese to foreigners (Koreans or Americans) so it is good for me to study a second and third language like Korean and English. 

Young (Korea): Next year, I will be going to the Korean Army Academy at Yeongcheon, Gyeongsanbuk-do (육군3사관학교) and I want to improve my English for the advancement of my future career and also meet people from other countries.

Kim (Guam/USA): I became interested in Korea by watching Korean tv dramas when I was in high school and then through Korean friends I met at the University of Guam. So, I started studying Korean in Guam and decided this would be a great chance to know more about Korea though first-hand experience.  I also received a scholarship. In the future, I would like to be a nurse, and knowing about other cultures will help me. I will be able to speak to Korean patients since we are getting a lot more visitors from Korea to Guam.

Minong (Korea): I studied in ISS last year and had a great time. I will go study for one semester in the USA and studying in ISS will help me prepare for that. Also, I plan to have my own school in the future so knowing about other cultures will help me.

River (China): My friends in China are crazy about Korea – dramas, music, tv shows, and fashion.  So, they influenced me to come to Korea. Our university in China had a relationship with CBNU so I decided to come here.  I want to be a translator for technical languages (engineering) in the future, so I would like to know Korean, English and German. I plan to study in Germany and maybe in the U.S. in the future.

CBNU also has a unique population in its ISS enrollment:  The non-traditional student from the USA.

 Anne Flickinger & Frank Sesek (USA)

Anne and Frank, from Boise Idaho, decided to join the CBNU ISS program after hearing about it from a friend who attended last summer.  Both registered for the program through Boise State University, a sister school of CBNU.

Frank has had a lifelong interest in East Asia, having spent time in Japan during his undergraduate days.  Anne also has an interest in East and Southeast Asia from her undergraduate courses in Asian history. She also works for the VA hospital in Boise and has heard many stories from returned veterans from Asia.

They have enjoyed their CBNU classes, the friendliness of the Korean people, and the rapport they developed with students from the different cultures. They also appreciate the deference and politeness shown to the "chronologically gifted." Both relished the opportunity to spend an extended period of time in Korea and would recommend the program to others. 

In sum, one can only be impressed by the creativity of Korean universities to design programs that bring young people from across the world to Korea for study during their vacation time.  These efforts are further contributing to the cultural diversity that one now sees in Korea and helps to create more "Friends of Korea." To take a closer look at ISS 2014 at CBNU , check out the following scenes:

Left to Right: Nana Koizumi,  Anna Watanabe, Tomohiro Osawa, Madelin Ahren, and Caitie Roach

Nana (Japan):  I've enjoyed spending my time here -- having parties with Americans -- I loved the ice cream and dance party.  In the future I would like to be a flight attendant so I want to be able to speak English well. I'd like to go to Korea to study, too. That would be fun.

Anna (Japan): I love all the activities. I liked volunteering to make food at the community dinner and visiting the home for the elderly.  I really want to improve my English and make friends. In the future I would like to teach Japanese as a second language.  Of course, I am interested in the Korean language, too. So, I would love to go there and study.

Tomohiro (Japan): I would like to be a tour guide in the future and take people to unusual, exotic places. So, I came here to sharpen my English skills and meet American students. I like to study and really enjoyed visiting Niagara Falls.  I'd go to Korea, too.

Madelin (USA):  i enjoy study Japanese so I wanted to come and make friends with Japanese students. I have enjoyed talking with them, sharing interests, discussing things we like and dislike.  In the future, I might want to work with anime.  I would love to go study in Korea in the future, too. I have some relatives who are Korean and I would love to be able to speak with them in Korean!

Caitie (USA):  I love being here. The students are very welcoming. I love to practice speaking Japanese. I'd like to be a translator in the future and maybe live in Japan.  I'd love to go study in Korea, too.

These students are experiencing a great deal as they interact with community members in Ohio and with other students and scholars from across the world. Here is a sample of an Ohio summer:

The summer school students in Korea and in the USA are very impressive. They come from across the globe with great interest in learning about other cultures and languages.  They are "thinking globally" regarding their future careers.  And, have cheerfully participated in service learning projects at "soup kitchens," homes for the elderly, global "pot lucks," home stays with American families, and educational programs for youth from disadvantaged backgrounds.  All the while, they are doing it with grace and good will. The opportunities for the global friendships that the summer school programs provide bode well for our planet's future. Many FOK members experienced the same  when serving as Peace Corps Volunteers.  

Feel free to leave a comment above or take our FOK ISS Survey. Enjoy the remaining summer days.

by Gerry Krzic (K-41) and Paul Courtright (K-48)

FOK Profile is an occasional feature of the FOK BLOG.  It highlights the career stories of FOK members. The series kicks off with a fascinating look at the health care initiatives of Dr. Paul Courtright on the African continent and his continued links with Korea.

The PC Years:  The Seeds Are Planted 
In spring the Korean countryside bursts into bright colors, the brown of winter gives way to the panoply of purple, yellow, pink from the azaleas, forsythia, and lilacs awakening from their winter slumber.  In southwestern Korea – the area around the town of Naju is also splashed with the white buds of the flowering pear trees – which by the end of summer will turn into round, succulent pears, reputed to be the best on the peninsula.  This fertile landscape of growth was a fitting place for a young Peace Corps Volunteer to find his calling in life – the seeds of a career in medical service planted in Korea would blossom some 6,000 miles away on the continent of Africa.  

In 1979, Paul Courtright began his journey into international eye care as a member of the 48th Peace Corps Korea group (K-48).  After the requisite three-month in-country training, he was assigned to Naju to begin his work as a Leprosy worker. Here is Paul's description of his Peace Corps time:

"During the first year living in a leprosy resettlement village managing the various leprosy related conditions I became particularly interested in the eye conditions of my villagers.   I was fortunate enough to link up with the only ophthalmologist in Korea providing eye care for leprosy patients and I spent one day a week with her (in Suncheon) learning about eye care.

That led me to decide to write a grant and get funding to travel around to all of the leprosy resettlement villages, screen all of the leprosy patients for eye disease, provide treatment that I could, get a list of those needing surgery, and organize their medical and surgical care.  That work took up the entire second year of my Peace Corps time.  I felt incredibly fortunate to be able to travel all over Korea, get to some very remote areas (leprosy resettlement villages were often tucked away in difficult to reach places), meet interesting people, and get to do challenging work.  I loved it -- when I was not frustrated, of course."

Post-Peace Corps: Blossoming in Africa
Paul spent an extra year in Korea after Peace Corps -- explaining that he was not ready to leave the Land of the Morning Calm -- so he spent one year teaching at Seoul International School.  After returning to America, he completed his Masters in Epidemiology and Doctorate in Public Health.  Paul related that even before he started working on his Doctorate (1988), he "pretty much decided to focus on ophthalmology and work in developing countries."  Except for 7 years at the University of British Columbia (1995-2001), Paul's career has been outside the USA and focused on the continent of Africa: Egypt (1985-86), Ethiopia (1989-90), Malawi (1990-1994), Tanzania (2001-2012), and now South Africa (2012-present).  Paul has not been alone in these many ventures outside the U.S. --- his spouse of 26 years, Dr. Susan Lewallen, has partnered with him in their goal to provide quality eye care service and education to the African continent.

KCCO: Community Eye Care Initiatives in Africa
Much of Paul and Susan's present work has grown from the outreach activities of the Kilimanjaro Centre for Community Ophthalmology (KCCO), which they established in Moshi, Tanzania in 2001.    

While KCCO is the largest centre of community ophthalmology in Africa, the staff is comprised of only 8 people with an annual budget of about $1.5 million.  According to Paul, KCCO aims to provide training for ophthalmologists and other eye health professionals in topics such as planning, leadership, management, research, gender, and community outreach.  The Centre's influence can be seen across the African continent; KCCO works with 14 different hospitals in Madagascar, Malawi, Zambia, Burundi, Tanzania, Rwanda, Uganda, Ethiopia, and Benin to increase the effectiveness and efficiency of eye care services.   

KCCO's research is operational in nature: how to improve and increase the use of services by women, approaches to more efficient trachoma control, and follow-up of children's surgery.   A large part of Paul's time is also spent on trachoma;   He is the Technical Lead for a large UK grant ($90 million over 5 years) for trachoma elimination in 5 countries; a second similar grant (6 more countries) from the UK government is expected in Spring, 2014.  KCCO is also the lead agency, on behalf of a consortium of many different trachoma groups, producing preferred practice manuals for all aspects of trachoma control.

Paul relates that KCCO's efforts have tripled or quadrupled the number of people getting cataract surgery (cataract being the leading cause of vision loss in Africa) without adding more staff --- as well as providing other eye care services.   Paul and Susan's incredible work also includes research and collaboration with international agencies, including Korean organizations.

Cross-Fertilization: A "안녕하세요" Grows Programs with Korea
Although Paul's work has carried him outside Korea,  his links with Korea have not ended.  In 2010, a representative from the Korean NGO, the Heart to Heart Foundation came to KCCO's Moshi office because he had heard about the organization's work; however, the visitor was in for a surprise as Paul introduced himself in Korean.  This initial encounter has led Heart to Heart to support a number of KCCO projects: conducting a pediatric ophthalmology outreach in Burundi and supporting trichiasis surgery for women in northern Tanzania.  The Burundi work was designed as a jumping off point to develop a nationwide eye care program for children in the country.  Additionally, KCCO worked with Heart to Heart to prepare a successful proposal to KOICA so that KCCO will be working with Heart to Heart in Burundi for five years. 

When Paul was in Korea in 2011 for one of the FOK Revisits, he was asked to give a talk at Yonsei University.  This led to a connection with the Department of Ophthalmology there and an engagement with a project they have in Malawi.  When Paul was in Malawi in February, 2014 facilitating Malawi's National Trachoma Elimination Plan, the Yonsei team joined.  As a result, they made an application to KOICA for supporting aspects of trachoma elimination in Malawi.  The project was approved and Paul will be meeting with KOICA in June, 2014 to discuss further steps    KCCO will be working with Yonsei University, Heart to Heart, and KCCO Malawi colleagues on improving surgical skills in (trachoma) trichiasis surgery and setting up a health system for monitoring the uptake of surgical services and outcome.   Paul will also be serving on Heart to Heart's Advisory Committee.

PC Reflections: Spreading The Right Seeds of Service 
When FOK asked Paul if his time as a Peace Corps Volunteer had any influence on his present career, he replied in one word: "Huge."  Paul said that his time doing leprosy work led to eye care which led to his current career.  He feels incredibly fortunate to have been able to do work that he loves:  "the many, many eye care professionals I have had the pleasure to train and mentor throughout Africa and Asia are now becoming the leaders in their field.  There is nothing better than seeing people we have trained up now taking the lead."  

Paul is aware of the new relationship between KOICA and the Peace Corps. He thinks it is great to have these two organizations work together. Yet, he still believes that the two organizations need to use this opportunity to learn more about Africa and provide context-appropriate help: 

"As much as I am thrilled to see Korea get more involved in assisting in Africa, working with various groups from Korea has illustrated to me the great need for Korean aid organizattions to get a better understanding of how things work/don't work in Africa.  In addition, there is still too much of a charity mentality to aid from Korea--this has included sending doctors from Korea to some places in Africa to do surgery that, in fact, Africans can do.  The other problem I have seen is people taking experiences from working in East Asia (where Korean assistance started) and then copying it to Africa.  Context matters.  Africa is not Asia....and Africa is not a country.  It would be good to find a way to broaden the engagement to include more sharing of experiences....that might be a way to help organizations figure out how to engage effectively in Africa." 

Finally...

Paul and Susan are presently in Cape Town, South Africa, where they established KCCO International in 2012.
They expect to spend another two years in this beautiful coastal city before deciding their future plans.

Their two sons have Peace Corps connections: Jim is in Senegal serving as a PCV and son Tom will be off to Fiji in the fall to begin his two-year PC service.

For more information about the work of KCCO, please visit http://www.kcco.net/index.html

by Gerry Krzic (K-41; 1977-80)

A new trend is slowly emerging across the Arabian gulf – and it isn’t just the penguin dance – it’s the educational ties between the Gulf countries and Korea.  While international education in Korea was at one time thought of Korean students going to countries such as the U.S., the U.K. or Germany to study (although still popular) – now more and more Korean students are going to learn other languages and cultures.  And, other students  are coming to Korean universities to further their education.  At recent international university fairs in Riyadh and Muscat, the evidence of this new trend was visible in the young people interested in going to Korea to study.  

Nabil Abdulaziz Algarni (Saudi Arabia)

Nabil was working at the Riyadh fair for the Saudi Arabian Cultural Mission in Seoul to promote study in Korea.  He first became interested in Korea when he became friends with Korean students while studying in London.  From there, he decided to further his education in Korea, where he is presently enrolled in the graduate law program at Kyunghee University.   In his free time, he assists with the Mission in Korea to help Saudi students adjust to Korea (about 600 Saudi students are in Korea) and advise Korean students who want to study in Saudi Arabia . Like most students adjusting to a new culture, his first few months in Seoul were a bit lonely as he adjusted to the new culture.  But, now he is one of Korea's biggest promoters -- he thinks the country is very safe and the people are great.  In the future, he would like to work in both Korea and Saudi Arabia and raise his children with an international perspective.

Amani Alotaibi (Saudi Arabia)

Amani became interested in Korea because of her goal in becoming the first female plastic surgeon in Saudi Arabia.  To achieve this goal, she researched medical programs worldwide and decided Korea, with its advanced medical practices in plastic surgery, was the place for her. So after researching scholarship opportunities, she decided on the medical program at Dankook University,  where she is now a second year medical school student.  For Amani, as with Nabil, life in Korea was difficult at first.  Since she was the only student wearing a hijab in her classes so it was difficult to make friends with Koreans and other international students.  She broke through this wall by initiating conversations and sharing her outgoing, optimistic personality. As she says, now, "Korea is amazing."  She travels throughout the country (Geojedo Island - 거제도 is her favorite place) and has many friends.  Her advice to anyway thinking about coming to Korea is to "treat Korea like a treasure.  Discover it by yourself." It sounds as if she ever decides to change her career from medicine, she could have a bright future with the Korean Ministry of Tourism!  

Zahra Abdullah & Thuwaibah Obaid (Oman)

Both Zahra and Thuwaibah will be going to Hanyang University Korea in summer, 2014 on a language and culture program.  When asked why they wanted to go to Korea, they both mentioned their "addiction" to Korean music and programs and the "green landscape with the wonderful views of mountains and the sea."  In the future, both would like to further their education abroad.  

Many Korean universities sent representatives to the fairs in Riyadh and Muscat.  Their primary purpose was to promote study in Korea and provide a personal contact for the Gulf students interested in coming to Korea.  Jung-Won Jay Chae of Myeongji University is good example.

Jung-Won Jay Chae (at Oman Fair)

Jung-Won was part of the adventurous generation of Koreans who left Korea at a young age to study in the U.S.  When she was 15 years old, she attended boarding school in the Chicago area and later graduated from Boston College. 

She returned to Korea,  completed a Master's degree, worked for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and  spent time working for the United Nations in Europe.  This international experience led to her present position at Myongji University in Seoul, where she is responsible for sending students abroad to study. 

Jung-won thinks it is important for her students to learn a different perspective through interaction while they are abroad.  Although the U.S. is a prime destinations for many students, she feels that studying in other parts of the workd is just as important.  In fact, she has helped 20 Myongji students go the the Middle East and North Africa to learn Arabic.

For the future, Jung-won believes that Korean universities will continue to recruit students from other countries.  Most of this is due to the changing demographics in Korea as there will continue to be a smaller number of Korean students going to universities. She also thinks it is necessary for the diversity developing in 21st century Korean society as people need to learn other perspectives. 

FOK Postscript:  During one of the FOK Revisits to Korea, Jung-Won was instrumental in assisting with April Herbert (taught English as a Peace Corps Volunteer at Myongji in 1971-72) and Kevin Herbert  (taught English at Sungkyun Kwan University 1971-72).

Mr. Dongsuk Song & Dr. Seung Ryul Jeong 
(at Riyadh Fair)

Dr. Jeong, Vice President for International Affairs and Public Relations, and Mr. Song, Manager of International Recruitment, at Kookmin University (KMU), both gave their views on their experience with International Education in Korea and its future prospects.

According to Dr. Jeong, in 1997, when he started teaching at KMU, there weren’t any international students; in 2005, there were about five international students.   Now in 2014, 1,700 students from other countries study at KMU,  nearly 10% of the total KMU enrollment of 18,000 students.  To further emphasize the dramatic change in international education during the last 15 years, Dr. Jeong described a story about one his former graduate students from Pakistan. After graduating from KMU, the student secured a faculty position at a university in Malaysia and continued to stay in contact with Dr. Jeong.  Now the two collaborate on joint research and their relationship has changed from teacher-student to peer-peer.  

Dr. Jeong said there are two factors at work in the growth in international education in Korea. The first is the "push" factor from the Korean government, which wants universities to promote a "pro-Korean" view commensurate with the country's growing economic power and cultural visibility: in short, a top ten economic power needs diversity.   The second is the "pull" factor of the individual universities who seek to diversify their campuses for educational and economic reasons.  By having a diversified campus and curriculum, universities can improve their rankings in the ultra-competitive Korean education market.  Mr. Song adds that with presence of international students on campus, Korean students who cannot study abroad, can still be exposed to diversity on campus (echoes of Ms.Chae above).  He feels these contact can open up opportunities: one KMU student who befriended a Finnish exchange student later was offered an unexpected internship in Finland.  

For the future, both feel that Korean universities will probably aim for a 10-15% international enrollment target for their campuses.  These figures will of course depend on international economic and political conditions.   Both think that growth may come from the Gulf region as well as from the Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS). However, as a result, the Korean universities will need to adjust to the needs of the changing international demographics on their campuses: the needs of a student from the Gulf may differ from the needs of a student from Kazakhstan.  They said that learning these needs as been an ongoing education for the university officials involved in international education.  

When asked about the views of Korean students towards international volunteer service such as KOICA, both felt  that the Korean government needed to better promote these types of initiatives to newly graduated students.  They also felt that Korean society and corporations needed to value these types of international experiences more than is presently done.  For example, Dr. Jeong felt returned KOICA volunteers would be a perfect fit for companies such as Samsung, which seek to develop regional experts.

FOK Postscript 2: Before joining KMU, Mr. Song was employed at the Korean Ministry of Foreign Affairs and worked with FOK past-President, Jon Keeton, to help organize FOK activities in Seoul.

For many of the Gulf students that I talked to during the fairs, it was apparent that they have a great interest in studying in Korea.  Many of them developed this interest through the traditional means:  positive contact with Korean students whom they met in a third country or their own country, exposure to Korean culture through media, and career goals that align with Korea's strengths and which can be realized through expanded scholarship programs.  Perhaps the best way to see their experience is through the following video:

Thanks to the following Korean university members who shared their views and permitted their pictures to be taken during the fairs in Oman and Saudi Arabia:  Dr. Seung Ryul Jeong & Mr. Songsuk Song (Kookmin University);  Ms. Jung-Won Chae & Prof. Jong Wha Lee (Myongji University);  Mr. Jihoon Jang & Dr. Jungwon Park (Dankook University); Ms. Kyure Lee & XX (Ehwa Womans University); Ms. Yuni Kang & Ms. Jinnie Yoon (Hanyang University); Ms.Christina Bokyung Kim & Ms. Joo Hee Lee (Sookmyung University); Mr. James Sunjae Won (Hallym University); Mr. Young Ha Kwon (Kangwon National University); Mr. Sung Hwan Song (Jeju National University).
Thanks to the following students from the Muscat (Oman) & Riyadh (Saudi Arabia) Fairs. Riyadh: Mohammad Al Ghamdi;  Nabil Abdulaziz Algarni; Amani Alotaibi.  Muscat:  Lihem; Simona; Zahra Abdullah, & Thuwaibah Obaid.

FOK Postscript 3:  At the same time the Muscat education fair was being held, the Korean Embassy in Oman was also hosting a 40th anniversary celebration to commemorate ties between the two countries.  Featuring traditional and contemporary Korean music and dance, an evening show titled "Korean Cultural Extravanganza" was well-received by a large Muscat audience and the local press.  No doubt some members of the audience were inspired to go and study in Korea in the future! 

We leave you to enjoy one of the groups that entertained the Muscat audience:  고래야 (Coreyah), a Fusion band performing 하얀 날개... Hallyu in the Gulf region...

by Gerry Krzic (K-41; 1977-80)

As the Lunar New Year of 2014 fast approaches, we can almost imagine the scene in the markets, department stores, and kitchens in Korea as the citizens prepare to enjoy the extended holiday:  Steam from the 떡국 (Rice cake soup) pots rising in the kitchens, elders preparing 세뱃돈 (envelopes with money) for the youngsters, parents choosing the best produce and gifts to take as presents to the family gatherings. 

Korean communities abroad will also be observing the Lunar New Year. Many Friends of Korea members will be celebrating  with family and friends in the U.S.  Except, their gatherings will likely be fused with elements of American culture creating a unique way to celebrate the holiday -- sharing 떡국 may morph into a "Dumplingfest." 

Throughout American history, this has been the case -- a fusing of the old with the new. But, for most of the late 19th and 20th century, the immigrants mainly came from European traditions. It wasn't until changes in U.S. immigration laws in the 1960s that the gates of America were opened wider to Latin America and Asia.  The demographic landscape of America has been changing ever since.  Smithsonian.com predicts by 2050 that white, non-Hispanic Americans will be in the minority and the Hispanic and Asian communities will nearly double in size:

On recent shopping trips to the Korean community to buy items for Christmas and 설날 (Seollal), I was given a first-hand lesson on two visible changes in America's demographics vis-à-vis the Korean community:   the surging Korean populations in "secondary" U.S. immigrant destinations and the ingenuity of Korean entrepreneurs to adapt to the changing demographics of American consumers.

Traditionally, areas such as New York, LA, Chicago, Honolulu, and Washington, DC have been the centers of large Korean immigrant communities with fewer, but significant, numbers in cities such as Boston, San Francisco, and Seattle.

These days, however, large growth is also occurring in what I describe as "secondary destinations." That is, places where Korean immigrants have relocated to after living in the traditional urban Korean immigrant areas listed above. The Pew Research Center provides a graphic of the Korean Communities in the U.S.

One example of a "secondary destination" is Atlanta, Georgia. I had heard of the large Korean population in Atlanta, but until I visited, I was not prepared for the high visibility of the Korean community in the northeast section of the city and suburbs, primarily in Gwinnett County.  A quick tour of the area, with the requisite stops at Korean-owned restaurants, bakeries, and supermarkets, and conversations with the employees helped me to understand the attraction of the area. Many of the people I talked to had moved from LA, NY, and DC because they found a more relaxed pace of life, lower costs of living, employment opportunities, and of course – good schools in the Atlanta area. They also mentioned the appeal of the "conservative" nature of the area with life centering around family and churches and the warm weather.  (Click on the pictures below for captions and a quick tour of some of the Korean-owned businesses.)

Other secondary destinations are Phoenix, Houston, Dallas, etc.  Shin Soo-Choo, the popular Korean pro baseball player, related that the reasons he signed with the Texas Rangers were that "he is partial to spring training in Arizona, where he has a home, and is comfortable with the idea of playing before a burgeoning Korean population in the Dallas-Fort Worth market." 

As seen in the above pictures, the ability of Korean entrepreneurs to adapt their services to changing American demographics is laudable.  Understanding the limitations to business growth by serving only a Korean-speaking market, they have sought to expand their products and services to a wider audience, particularly the new immigrants arriving to America.  John Sung, of Columbus, Ohio is a good example.

John originally came to the U.S. in 1989 to join family members in Indiana, who had already immigrated in the late 1980s. His mother and brother had the idea of opening a small Korean grocery story in Bloomington, Indiana in 1994.  Named Saraga (Korean for “living”), the motto of their store was to “provide food and products for people’s lives.” 

After a successful ten years in Bloomington, the brothers, noticed the burgeoning immigrant population to the north in Indianapolis and decided to open a larger Saraga on the west side of the city in 2005. Opening a 62,000 square-foot grocery store and trying to learn the dietary preferences of potential customers from Latin America, the Caribbean, the Middle East and South Asia was a challenge.  John remembers that “it was difficult at first and we had to build up our stock based on what customers would ask for and what the vendors were suggesting. Often times, we had to throw away produce and items that weren’t selling.”  

By 2008, the brothers had started to overcome the stress of this “trial and error” period, and the store started to operate in the black.  Greater success soon followed as the store revenues began to grow significantly.  

The success of the store also opened up another opportunity for the brothers.  John told me that they noticed that some of their regular customers were Burmese.  By talking to them, he learned that the south side of Indianapolis had a large Burmese population, particularly the Chin ethnic group, recent refugees to the area. However,  the south side of town lacked a store that could serve their needs.  To assist this population, he bought a van to transport the Burmese to his store, often making round trip journeys three to four times a day.  However, being chauffeur and trying to manage a large supermarket was a challenge for John, so in 2010 he and his brother decided to give up the transportation business and opened a smaller Saraga store near the Burmese community in Greenwood, Indiana. 

Having gone through the learning process of their Indiana stores, the brothers felt comfortable enough to spread the Saraga brand to the East and opened a store in Columbus, Ohio – about 2 hours from Indianapolis. Columbus, the fastest growing city in Ohio, is starting to see a large immigrant population develop on the northeastern side of the city – the perfect spot for another Saraga!

As of this time, John is still worried if the Columbus store will be a success or not. He is still learning the preferences of his new customers from Nepal, Bhutan, Somalia and Central America.  But based on his determination and dedication to serving his customers, the chances for success are high.    

If you have any observations about the changing face of America, the Korean community in your area, or your way to celebrate the Lunar New Year,  we welcome your comments.

And in the Year of the Horse, FOK wishes all its members and friends a very Happy New Year.  

 새해 복 많이 받으세요!

This blog was written by Linda Ecker in honor of former Peace Corps Korea Country Director (1970-72) and Peace Director (1972-73), Don Hess.  Don passed away on September 15, 2013.  He was the first PC Director to initiate training of the Volunteers in their host countries, resulting in effective country-specific training, greater utilization of host country nationals, and cost saving for Peace Corps.

My Tribute to Don Hess

One would be hard-pressed to find a more honorable man than Don Hess.  He wasn’t flashy.  Perhaps he was not even memorable.  But he was a man of his word and one who could be counted on to do the right thing always.  One might be tempted to add “as he saw it”, but what more can one ask when it comes to character?  Perhaps I did not know him as well as some.  To the extent that I knew him, this is what I know.

I remember the first time I saw Don Hess standing in front of my desk at Peace Corps headquarters on H Street, when we were just across from Lafayette Square.  He was humble and polite which was refreshing for someone of his professional stature.  I came to know him as unfailingly kind.  We exchanged weekly letters during his tenure as Country Director, and when he came to Washington as Director of the Peace Corps, his door was always open to me.  Granted, it was a heady time for the Korea Desk Officer with both Kevin O’Donnell and Don Hess occupying consecutive eminent positions.  The “Korea Mafia” was an often-heard phrase.

I was so happy to see him at the NANEAP gathering in Washington at the 50th Anniversary Celebration.  It certainly did not seem then that his “time was limited.”  I live in Lancaster now, and I had not known that he was a “Lancaster County boy” and had graduated from Franklin and Marshall College here.  I have since learned that he received a Doctor of Humane Letters from F&M in 2011.  He had also been a member of the Board of Trustees for the college since 1988.  Clearly, he was respected by all who knew him, and I am grateful to have been one of them.

Linda Ecker (RPCV, Nigeria & former PC Korea Desk Officer)

 RPCV, Dennis Halpin (K-16) shares his thoughts on the 50th of anniversary of President Kennedy's death. The views expressed are those of the author.  

For every generation of Americans, there is a special day, a date when we indelibly remember exactly where we were when the horrific news came.  For the Greatest Generation, it is December 7, 1941.  For today's generation it is September 11, 2001.  For my generation, it is November 22, 1963.

I was in sophomore geometry class at Notre Dame High School for Boys in Niles, Illinois when the Holy Cross Father came on the loud speaker and said "the President has been shot in Dallas.  Pray for him."  You could then hear a pin drop in the classroom.  Tears rolled down the cheeks of normally taciturn teenage boys. That Sunday, as we headed into Mass, a man called from the church parking lot "Oswald's been shot."  A second shock. That week of the blood-stained dress, the Presidential oath on a grounded Air Force One, the rider-less black horse, the little boy saluting, and the eternal flame will be forever seared in our memories. For Irish-Americans this all has a very special place in our hearts for, as my Aunt Dot said, "Jack Kennedy was one of ours."

I had almost personally seen President Kennedy in early November 1963, when our high school band headed to O’Hare Airport to greet him for his arrival for the Army-Air Force game at Soldier Field. We were told that a military coup in South Vietnam, however, led to a last-minute cancellation of what would have been his final visit to Chicago. There were other, later reports that the trip was cancelled due to an assassination plot on the streets of Chicago just three weeks before the President died.

We have learned since his death that President Kennedy had his flaws, like all human beings.  But he was still the leader of the glitter of Camelot, an era that seems so distant from today's grim America. His call to "ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country," which has a somewhat naive ring in today's cynical world, struck a chord.  You see, as with many of us, John Fitzgerald Kennedy changed my life.  After graduating from college, I answered his call and volunteered with the Peace Corps to teach English in Korea. From there I joined the Foreign Service and had two tours in Korea, one at our Embassy in Seoul and the other at the Consulate in Pusan.  I then served for a dozen years as an adviser on Korean and other Asian issues for Henry Hyde and other Congressional leaders on the House Foreign Affairs Committee. Today I am a visiting scholar at the U.S.-Korea Institute at SAIS.  My entire career – and meeting my wife in Korea – was shaped by President Kennedy’s stirring words and by his formation of the Peace Corps.

 I recently returned to Seoul at the invitation of the Government of the Republic of Korea, to attend a Peace Corps reunion.  Old volunteers there were overwhelmed by the thankfulness expressed. "We just taught ABCs and gave TB inoculations," I told the Korean press in an interview.  But the Korean Vice Minister of Foreign Affairs told us all at a welcoming reception, that "you came and helped us in our time of need. Without Peace Corps, Korea would never have achieved its economic miracle."  In 1991 South Korea established The Korea International Cooperation Agency (KOICA) to administer the grant programs that an economically developed Korea could now fund and to send volunteers, in a reflection of the Peace Corps, to the developing world.  That also is part of President Kennedy's legacy.

I was a bit disappointed to see two American Presidents, Obama and Clinton, along with Aunt Ethel, attending a wreath-laying ceremony at Arlington Cemetery for President Kennedy’s fiftieth death anniversary but that Caroline, the last surviving member of his immediate family, was absent. Caroline had flown off to Tokyo to become the new U.S. Ambassador just a week before the ceremony at Arlington. JFK’s daughter must have her own personal reasons. She also had meetings with the Japanese Emperor and Prime Minister. But, as President-elect Kennedy remarked on January 9, 1961: "to those whom much is given, much is expected."  And it would be unimaginable for the Korean President, Park Geun-hye, also the daughter of an assassinated president, not to attend a memorial service for her father.  I took the  Metro out to Arlington Cemetery on Friday, November 22nd, to lay some flowers for President Kennedy from a grateful Peace Corps/Korea. 

by Gerry Krzic (K-41; 1977-80)

Autumn in the U.S., 2013
On an early autumn morning in Southeast Ohio, a Korea RPCV jogs while listening to 가울 편지 on his iphone;  he double-checks the lyrics on Google.  That same week, in North Carolina, another RPCV leaves her house to get the morning mail.  She looks up to a clear blue sky through the barren tree branches. Her eyes begin to moisten as she remembers the “High Sky” autumn days of Korea.  Seventeen hundred miles to the west in that same autumn, another Korea RPCV climbs a mountain in Arizona. Looking over the landscape, he recalls his days hiking Soraksan in Gangwando. 

Nostalgia on steroids? Or evidence of the transformative experience that Peace Corps Korea has been for the Americans who served there?  I’d suggest the latter. Need more proof?  How about...

Autumn in Korea, 2013
Fifty-five Returned Peace Corps Volunteers (RPCVs), some with accompanying family members, are gathered in the lobby of Seoul's Somerset Palace Hotel on a mid-October Sunday afternoon. Guests of the Korea Foundation for the 8th Revisit Program to Korea, they are about to experience Korea one more time -- for a week full of emotion, reconnection, and remembrance... the lasting impact of the PC experience is in full view.

Sunday Night
The week began with an evening orientation on Sunday -- reminiscent of the initial meeting the volunteers had experienced decades ago when they first arrived in Korea.  if one tried hard enough, it was possible to step back in time and imagine that a new PC group was forming -- perhaps "K-2013."  The American staff would be Jon Keeton and Jim Mayer, former KPC directors, and Nancy Kelly and Mary Broude, members of the Friends of Korea (FOK) board.  This team would be ready to meet the needs of fifty-five personalities and accompanying family members.  And if the American side should falter – the Korean staff, led by Yie-Rim Jeong, from the Korea Foundation, and Sunny Kim, of TN Korea Travel, would be there to save us. In short, our new PC “office” was ably staffed.  We’d be okay for our new adventure.

Monday
After a fine breakfast buffet at the Somerset -- a daily ritual -- the group boarded busses to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (MOFA) for presentations on the changes in Korean education and health practices since the 1960s.  Led by Professors Ha and Sohn, we learned that the respect accorded teachers in Korea (evidenced by the high ranking of Korean teachers’ salaries in a world-wide study) and the emphasis on engineering education may have been two of the keys to Korea’s dramatic economic development.  In health, we learned that the leading causes of death  in the 1960s and 70s -- tuberculosis-- had been replaced by cardiovascular diseases in the 21st century. The time passed quickly as we continued asking questions – it was time to get ready for lunch and then on to our next visit:  the Korea International Cooperation Agency (KOICA).

The visit to KOICA was like holding up a mirror -- but instead of seeing our own images, we now saw the faces of young Koreans about to embark on a journey that would likely transform their lives.  The KOICA volunteers were being dispatched to a variety of countries– many of the them were preparing to go to South America.  Their training included technical skills, cultural learning and Spanish. A member of our group began speaking Spanish to one of the KOICA volunteers. What a linguistic change from 35 years ago -- now Spanish and Korean served as the means of communication! As we left the meeting,  we could only envy the KOICA volunteers' youth and enthusiasm. From what we saw, Mr. Sungho Choi, the Executive Director of the World Friends Headquarters, is sending a fine group of people out into the world.

Monday night was a wonderful reception hosted by the MOFA at the Shilla Hotel.  Graciously welcomed by the Korean Foreign Minister, we also had a chance to reconnect with the pride of PC Korea: Kathleen Stephens -- OUR Ambassador. RPCV Stan Hudson, behind an authoritative-looking Hangul nameplate, presented remarks on our behalf.  Then, he and his wife, Ada, performed a lovely rendition of Arirang,  adding a mellow touch to the evening's events.  Many of the former Peace Corps staff officers and teachers were there.  Who else remembers Korean teachers Park Sae Joon and Chun Bo Bae?

Tuesday & Wednesday
Tuesday and Wednesdays were reserved for  tours in Seoul or  site visits to the RPCVs' schools and health clinics.  “I remember, I remember”  was the operative phrase for these days.  Jim Mayer told many of the volunteers that they would likely have an emotional experience during this time and he was right!  Although the buildings and staff may have changed, seeing former students and colleagues brought tears to the eyes of many of the RPCVs and their Korean friends. Check out the video (courtesy of the Korea Foundation) at the end of this blog and you'll understand.

Thursday
Thursday morning's highlight was the signing of the Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) between Friends of Korea (FOK) and the National Museum of Korean Contemporary History in Seoul.  The museum highlights post-war Korean history and is a chance for RPCVs to share their intimate experience of Korea with the public.   Museum Director, Mr. Kim Wang Sik, expressed his thanks for FOK's willingness to assemble objects for the collection. After the MOU signing and a rooftop lunch --with wonderful views of Seoul, the museum conducted oral interviews of each RPCV – another emotional moment for many.  RPCVs who would like to contribute items to the collection should go to the Museum page on the FOK website for information on the process.

Thursday afternoon was a time of choice for the RPCVs.  They had the option of attending a "Dialogue with Ambassadors," the House of Sharing (Comfort Women's Shelter), or Korean House for a traditional cultural experience.  All the options presented a different aspect of Korea.  The Dialogue with Ambassadors featured 6 former U.S. ambassadors to Korea and 6 former Korean ambassadors to the U.S. in a roundtable discussion of U.S.-Korea relations. The House of Sharing allowed the RPCVs the opportunity to hear from the remaining "Comfort Women" of World War II. The Korea House provided the RPCVs and family members the opportunity to learn the fine art of making kimchi and wearing the latest hanbok fashions.

Friday
Friday morning was a chance for the RPCVs to see firsthand some of the developments in Korea's education and health facilities.  Former education volunteers visited the Hanguk Woojin Hakgyo, a school for students with special needs.  Health volunteers visited the Korea Foundation for International Healthcare.  Both groups were impressed by the facilities and the developments in Korean education and healthcare.

Friday afternoon was a visit to the Korean National Assembly. The RPCVs had a presentation about the Korean political system and then a delightful reception at Sarang Jae, the site of the 2010 G-20 summit in Seoul.  Speaker of the National Assembly, H.E. Kang Chang-hee, was our host.  Possessing a fine sense of humor, Speaker Kang made all of the volunteers feel warmly welcomed as he mingled and posed for pictures.

Friday evening, arrived too quickly -- it was time for the final event of the week -- a farewell dinner at the Seoul Marina Club House. The group was welcomed by the KF Director, Dr. Hyun-seok Yu.  Jon Keeton and Jim Tielsch offered remarks on behalf of the RPCVs and presented Dr. Yoo with a Through Our Eyes Book.  There was more time for tears as we watched Joonhee Lee's video of the Peace Corps experience.  Even our Korean Foundation MC was overcome with emotion.  Warning -- if you haven't seen Joonhee's video -- have some tissues ready!  Following the video, the audience was entertained by Ms. Eunkyeong Ahn: Purity.  Melding the classical sound of the Korean Piri with an acoustic guitar, bass and drum, Ahn's music is a unique fusion of the East and West. Their final piece was a beautiful rendition of Arirang:

After we returned to the U.S., we asked a few RPCVs their impressions of the Revisit. Here are their thoughts...

Russ Dynes (K-24; 1972-74)

Russ was last in Korea about 40 years ago. The picture to the left features two Ohio State University grads from different generations-- Russ and Kristin Krzic, who was an accompanying family member of another volunteer.  Looks like we need an O-H-I-O!

"I served as a volunteer from July 1972 to July 1974 as a tuberculois control worker (K24) in a rural public health center in Cholla Buk Do, Korea. The staff at the health center: the young nurses, the workers and the senior administrators, treated me like family when I worked there as a young man. When I returned in October of 2013, although the personnel had changed and they were housed in a beautiful new health facility, they welcomed me like a "lost son" who had finally returned home."   When asked about his career after PC, Russ replied,  "I returned to the states after my PC work, I continued working in health and human services and recently retired from Delaware's Division of Public Health after 22 years. Peace Corp was a key part of my growth and development personally and professionally."

Peggy McLeod (K-19; 1971-73)

On the left, Peggy and her daughter, Jasmin, pose with her PC Korean family during their revisit.

"My overall feeling about the Korea revisit is that of honor and gratitude for the kindness and generosity of the Korean government and for their appreciation for what we did as Peace Corps volunteers. I have never felt so appreciated for work that I have done, and yet I know that I/we did not deserve this level of recognition. 

Most of us would agree that we received more than we gave as Peace Corps volunteers in Korea. 

I was moved by the visit to KOICA and consider this to be the real legacy that Peace Corps may have left in Korea.  The heartfelt connection between the two organizations was touching, and I am proud to know that the examples we may have set during our volunteer service 35-40 years ago is being continued by Koreans themselves.

My site visit was a warm, wonderful reconnection with my Korean family, the mother and father now in their late 70's, and the instant feeling of being “family” with them again.  I never dreamed that I would see them again, and sit next to them and share food and gifts and memories.  There were tears and hugs and “pogoshipoyos” all around!

 The welcome I received at my school was also warm and meaningful, with open hearts and typical Korean hospitality.  My daughter and I were shown around the school and then were taken to a wonderful traditional bulgogi restaurant.  We also visited a new park where part of my old school had been moved.  I remembered our old school was very traditional in style, but what I didn't know was that part of the school was an ancient Chosun dynasty guest house, which is now part of a national historical monument.  What a treat to see this beautiful old building now restored and remembered for its historical significance!

My only other comment is that I would normally not have participated in a trip like this, being bused around in groups, sticking to a rigid schedule and having to be at galas and formal events.  But I decided it was important for me to experience Korea again.  My last trip in 2000 was more of a culture shock than a revisit, and I am so very glad I did.  It was a once in a lifetime opportunity that I will never forget!  Thank you to the Korea Foundation and Friends of Korea for the gift of reconnection with my beloved Korean home." 

Audrey Pulis (K 29; 1973-75)

On the left, Audrey at her school during the revisit. A later trek into the mountains led to a serendipitous experience and a new Korean friend.

"The revisit for me was the first time I returned to Korea in 40 years, and it was a wonderful opportunity to see the advances Korea had made in that relatively short time , given the incredible advances in infrastructure, transportation, technology, etc. I was very grateful for the many activities we participated in over the six day program, and was quite touched by the level of gratitude expressed and demonstrated to us by the Koreans. I still feel I received far more from my Peace Corps experience than I gave to Korea.

My site visit was as I expected: no one I had known or worked with was still there, and the school was changed as well from a coed middle school to a girl's high school. The school and town were not even recognizable from the poor rural agricultural community it had been 40 years earlier, as it is now the "Beverly Hills" of Seoul. However, I was treated very graciously by the school hosts. My most moving experience was when they (at my request) took me out to the walkway which led to the trail going up the mountain (Gwanaksan which I hiked often during my PCV days). A Korean gentleman/poet/woodcarver, came out when he saw us and insisted we go into his studio for coffee with him. They explained who I was and the purpose of my visit. He then presented me with one of his woodcarvings as well as a large vinyl hanging with one of his poems on it (it was about the beauty and serenity of the mountain). Then he asked me to come back and visit whenever I return. After the program ended, I went back there, hiked the mountain from Seoul National University side up and over the top and down to Gwacheon, found my new friend while having a meal at his wife's restaurant near the trail, and gave him one of the "Peace Kor" t-shirts I had ordered. He was thrilled, and I feel we will be friends forever.  The entire revisit, in short, renewed my love for Korea and the Korean people, and I will go back within the next couple of years and tour more of the country that I was not able to see this trip."

Terry Quarles (K14; 1970-72)

On the left, Terry reconnecting with a colleague during her PC days.

 "To see the many structural and physical changes (road, transport, bridges, new and lovely buildings, art work, gardens and the trees, improved housing and farming techniques, folks just overall looking prosperous, more food and better food available) is so satisfying.  People worked SO hard when I was there ('70-72)!!!!!!

Also know these changes have brought about new challenges--care for the elderly, lots of education with no place to go after lots of money spent on education, the changes and challenges in the agricultural community, problems with "faster" and more expensive living costs . . . . . . . . .many still working many long hours for their "keep" . . .

While the outside face has changed dramatically, folks in general have not changed all that much! (hurray!)  The first formality, the kindness in general, the curiosity, the social mores and the overall social nature of the people has not changed much that I could see."  

Paul Gregg (K-1; 1966-68)

Paul and his wife Betty with old colleagues and new friends during his revisit to Incheon, his former site.

"The revisit was wonderful, of course.  My feelings of unworthiness did not prevent me from thoroughly enjoying being so well taken care of, the first-class accommodations, flattering receptions, the comraderie of the group, amazing cuisine, and the experiences of culture and information. After trying to imagine the changes for years, finally to see the Seoul and Incheon of today was fascinating.  And I’m especially grateful that my wife, Betty, was made part of the group to experience all this along with me.

The serendipitous developments of each day were a special delight.  While we knew from Jon Keeton's emails and from the printed schedule that we were in for a great week, wonderful features that had not been detailed for us in advance would continue to materialize.  For example, I had visualized the hike along the Seoul fortress wall to be us strung out in a quiet line that a couple of serious college fellows would be pulling along at a brisk pace.  How much better to find myself accompanied by two middle school kids, delightful modern and perfect English speakers, as my personal companions for several hours?   

The site visit was an emotional experience!  The principal of Jemulpo High School emailed me a couple of weeks before the revisit to introduce himself, welcome me, and tell me that he had been a student in the Middle School back when I was teaching there.  When I arrived and approached the school door, he came running  outside to greet me--alongside a teacher whom I recognized immediately and had liked very much but had never expected to see (he seemed older then, and turned out to now be 87).  On the steps we were joined by six former students of mine—now distinguished and successful-looking men of about 60.  Inside Betty and I were treated to a reception with flattering speeches and most generous gifts. 

I did get to see an English class during the visit, which I had hoped.  And while I had hoped to see a little of the nearby city center, Principal Lee gave us a wide-ranging and thoughtfully-planned tour of greater Incheon, old and new, beyond all expectation.

It was satisfying to see what hadn’t changed: the layout of school buildings in the little valley the school occupied, the same dirt playing and assembly field in front of the building, and of course the kindness, graciousness, and generosity of the people.  Students in the gym stopped what they were doing and bowed to me when we went in.

But of course in the city that now has one of the planet’s highest-rated international airports and several huge international seaport areas, modernization has transformed pretty much all but some hills into a different world.  I chuckled when I realized that much of the Korea I remembered had been relegated to a museum we visited, and that there it was I, and not the much younger docent, who seemed the expert on A-frames, yan-ton (the charcoal blocks burned for heating), tabangs, and honey-bucket men."  

Betty also commented "As an accompanying spouse it moved me to be so well received at the visiting site with wonderful gifts to both of us, not just Paul.  The site visit included a museum that preserves the lifestyle Paul experienced as a Peace Corps Volunteer.   It was a slow revelation but very evident that the Koreans are a warm, appreciative people who are giving back through their own Peace Corps and gestures of appreciation"    

Paul concludes: "I’m enjoying telling people about the trip and about Korea today.  I’m proud to wear my new Jemulpo Alumni Association belt."  

FOK, the RPCVs, family and friends who participated on the 8th Revisit would like to thank the Korea Foundation and all the Korean hosts who worked so hard to make this such a memorable trip. We valued reconnecting with old friends, remembering old places, and making new friendships -- which may mean Korea hasn't see the last of us!     진심으로 감사합니다!  또 뵙겠습니다!    

Here's the Korea Foundation video showing the week's events -- a must watch!

by Gerry Krzic (K-41; 1977-80)

September is a month of transition as we bid goodbye to the green leaves of summer and welcome the multi-colored foliage of fall.  Warm hot days give way to the crisp days of autumn.  In Korea, the season is known as the 천고마비의계절 (season of “high skies and fat horses")...  a time of abundance and movement.

Our friends in Korea are now beginning to prepare for their wonderful national holiday "Chuseok" (추석).  From September 18-20 -- a good percentage of the population will be traveling to their hometowns or these days abroad as they stretch the holiday into a week-long celebration.

At the same time, in the U.S., fifty-five former Korea Peace Corps Volunteers are making preparations to visit Korea in mid-October on a Korean government sponsored Revisit.  This will be the 8th visit to take place.

While in Korea, they will attend festivities in Seoul, journey to their former service sites, and re-connect with old friends.  If they have not been back to Korea since their service, they will be astounded by Korea of the 21st century.

This summer, I was fortunate to experience a "pre-visit" to this revisit as I spent three weeks in Jeonju (전주시) in Chollabukdo (전라북도), a part of Korea where I had not spent much time before.  Since I had not been to Korea in a while, I had six impressions.

1. Incheon Airport is Amazing

A marvelous facility. Not only are you whisked off the plane efficiently (compared to 30 years ago, when you boarded the bus from the plane to the terminal at old Kimpo airport), but also your visa is processed smoothly, luggage is delivered promptly, and you’re in the main terminal lobby before you know it.

With a variety of shops, eateries, and even a sauna (찜질방) on the lower floor, it's not the kind of airport that you want to rush out of...witness the concert in the picture on the left on the day I arrived.  Waiting was very pleasurable.

Once I reached Jeonju and settled into my daily routine, I was struck at how I seemed to be leading a very healthy lifestyle. Thus -- my second impression.

2.  Living Healthy in Korea is Possible Even for Me (Four Observations)

3.  Buddhist Temples Are Still Great Places
     to Visit

Taking a bus outside the city to a rural temple is still a great way to spend the day.  The serene feeling one has when entering the temple grounds melts away any stress from city life.

Anecdote: I met two 아주머니 in the temple and chatted a little in Korean. They asked, "How did you learn Korean?" I told them I couldn’t speak Korean before entering the temple. But once inside, I prayed really hard, and then suddenly Korean words came tumbling out of my mouth.  They asked if it would work for their English.  I told them to try.  If it does, Geum San temple is going to make a lot of money!

4. Volunteerism Is Alive and Well in Korea

A building at Chonbuk University in Jeonju proudly displayed a banner announcing a solar project in Morocco under the auspices of the Korean International Cooperation Agency (KOICA - 한국국제협력단) -  the Korean counterpart to the American Peace Corps.  Korea, once a recipient of Peace Corps Volunteers, now sends its own volunteers to countries around the world.  Additionally, the university was hosting the 6th National Volunteer Conference (제6회 전국자원봉사컨퍼런스).

5. Korean Entrepreneurism Advances On

The phrase "making lemonade out of lemons" seems apt here.  We all know about the tragic division of Korea.  But, some enterprising business folks have now figured out a way to make the best of the situation.  Now, you can buy water from Paek Du San (백산수) and the DMZ (청정수),  both purported to be the purest of the pure.

6. Always Go Left When Leaving the Hospital

On my daily wanderings around the community, I was able to observe the updated facilities and see the changes in Korea.  As with public transportation, arranged to be very convenient, hospitals also offer a variety of services and specialties to the community for all eventualities. Here is one sign attesting to those services  Still, when I leave that hospital I sure hope I can turn left..at least for the foreseeable future!

FOK blog post by Gerry Krzic (K-41)